Putting up an Exhibit
Chemical Inventory
Reback
Drill and Sew-through the side into a binder
HVAC
We started with laminating the signs for the exhibit, which is done by adhering Kapco paperback protectors to both sides of a printed page.
-Select two Kapco sheets similar to the size of the page you are laminating.
-Place the page near the top edge of the Kapco sheet, it doesn't need to be completely straight.
-Smooth the paper down with a white cotton glove starting with the center, working your way out. Try not to leave bubbles.
-Put the other piece on by lining it up with the top edge and placing it down slowly.
-Smooth it down with the cotton glove until you see a sort of marbled pattern indicating that the adhesive has set the plastic to the paper and there are no pockets of air between then.
-Cut the item to size using a straight edge or a cork-backed metal ruler and a scalpel. *Do not use the board sheer on the Kapco paperback protectors because it leaves a glue residue on the blade, effecting other items.
When completing the signs we took a moment to discuss the area the library has to display exhibits. It seems as though there are a lot of perimeters from other departments to consider when hanging an exhibit. The space has constraints; shelving with matching board inserted in the gaps is used to hang displays, along with fishing lure. Key images must be facing one direction because it is more highly trafficked. Before the work is done, the work is reviewed by the library director.
After we were done examining the area and making the signs, Sharlane explained to me the Chemical Inventory. The Chemical Inventory is a list of every potential harmful substance the department has that is featured on the Material Safety Data Sheet. The data sheet is a comprehensive catalog of all the chemicals used in a lab that would need to be accounted for on a Chemical Inventory. I continued where the IMLS student left off in checking the labels and quantities against the previous year's Chemical Inventory. Anything that was unaccounted for was placed on the table for further consideration as to what it is and if it needs added to the list.
At this point, Sharlane let me do a drill and sew through the side into a binder (instead of straight through). This is done by going through the same drill and sew process as before, make the 5 holes within 1/4 inch from the spine's edge, enlarge the holes with an awl. Then brace the text block so that it is free standing, lining up the drilled holes with the binder tape flaps and marking where the holes are on the flaps. Then you start at the back and sew it using the same pattern as sewing a single signature, but ending up in the back.
Here is the item after I drilled the holes.
Here I am using the awl to enlarge the holes to ease my sewing job.
I used the special way to thread the needle that leaves less of a tail.
The item needs to be lined up with the bottom in order to sit correctly on the shelf in the future.
When Quinn (the IMLS student) arrived, we each chose a book to do a reback on, both had paper covers. Sharlane demonstrated partially on one of ours for each step, while we watched and continued the step on our own. Today we covered cutting off the spine fabric and cleaning the super. A reback is done if there has been damage to the spine, but the super (or mull) is still intact).
-First you cut off the spine fabric by finding the board and cutting the fabric (or paper in this case) about an 1/8 inch beyond the gutter (on the board). The reason to cut on the board is if you do not, you risk cutting through the super and having to replace the cover entirely. *Straw board is harder to work with and may present more problems when it comes to pulling up the fabric.
-When this is done, you should be able to gently pull up the fabric (or cut in some places) with a micro-spatula and lift away the spine (set aside).
-Cut 1/4-1/2 inch slits at the top and bottom of the board beyond the cut so that the fabric can be lifted up.
-Using a pointed micro-spatula, grab the first layer of board (not as necessary with fabric bound books) by pointing slightly down and pushing the tool under the left over fabric. Start in the middle and work your way out until you have pulled up 1/4-1/2 inch of the material.
-Next you clean off the spine, being careful of the super, by using wheat paste and a micro-spatula with a flat edge (such as one of the thick steel ones). Apply the wheat paste and let it set in a few moments before removing all excess paper left over on the spine.
When you are done it should look like the image below.
--If the spine (or title) is decorative at all, it should be dealt with separately. Start by removing the paper on the opposite side of the fabric by using a micro-spatula on it gently. If this does not work, soak the title in water for about 10-15 minutes, and try to remove the paper again while it is still submerged in water. This may cause some of the colors to bleed off of the material.
--When you are done, place the title between a sheet of remay and blotter (one for each side). Change these out every half hour, using wrinkled blotter while it is wet and straight blotter when it is closer to dry.
At this point we had to leave these repairs to take a tour of the off-site library storage facility, called RRCC (Retrospective Research Collection Center). The center holds approximately 150,000 volumes, and is manned by one individual. The key reason for our tour was to see the HVAC system, which measures the temperature and humidity while regulating them.
Reback continued:
Now the book needs a new spine lining, or in the case of thick books-a hollow tube. This is used to protect the mull from damage and use. Use end sheet paper for this repair
--Spine liner: Measure from edge-to-edge and corner-to-corner of the spine. It needs to be exact, and not curl over the edge.
--Apply glue to both spine liner piece (use scrap or wax paper underneath) and spine, line them up and place the spine liner down.
--Smooth out the bubbles with a bone folder.
--Put wax paper on top of the spine and then add a few of the sandbag weights on top of the spine.
--Hollow tube: Use the length and height measurements to draw a line using a bone folder (and triangle/straight edge). This makes it easier to fold.
--Fold over and bone folder the crease down, then bone folder next to edge and fold over and bone folder down the crease.
--Cut off the remaining material.
--Close one side over and glue the overlapping pieces together by applying PVA to the open flap. Go from the crease outward.
--Fold close and use the bone folder to smooth.
--When it's dry, go inside the pocket with small scissors and cut the creased edge 3/4 inch down. This makes it so the new material can be folded down into the spine.
--Glue the side with only one layer to the spine (with PVA), so that the side with two layers can evenly distribute the weight. Smooth down the spine thoroughly with a bone folder.
--Put wax paper on top of the spine and then add a few of the sandbag weights on top of the spine.
Next you want to pick out the fabric that will replace the spine you removed. Choose a fabric (or paper) that matches the texture and color, or slightly contrasts it (such as adding a brown to a tan that have the same texture). Along with that, the spine needs bristle board to strengthen the spine so that it will keep it's shape, called a spine strip.
-Cut a piece of bristle board the same way you would a spine liner, but instead of using the spine height, use the board height.
-Loosely cut off a piece of fabric larger than you would need and make the edge into a right angle. Do this by using a triangle.
-Measure 1/2-3/4 inch from the bottom edge and draw a line. These lines are for the turn-ins.
-Test the fabric for length by placing the piece in the flap of material on the cover. Make sure to allow for a bit of space for the glutter. Mark at the edge of the spine and draw a line.
-Glue down the spine strip with PVA to the lines already made.
-Draw on the top edge line and measuring from the spine strip 1/2-3/4 inch. Cut off the excess.
-Draw on the opposite edge and measure using the other side's length-calculated by testing in the flap. Cut off the excess.
We ended the reback at 4:35pm, to pick back up during the next session.
*If any processes are repeated in my blog, it is because they were repeated during my practicum experience. I apologize for any redundancy.
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