Practicum Experience in Preservation: Eleventh Week Experience-April 6th

I arrived in the preservation department at 8:30am. For the first few minutes I discussed what we would do today, which included making a modern book, mending VHS and cutting the faux leather for the first book and real leather for the second. Sharlane was able to buy leather cheaply because it came in small pieces instead of a roll. Therefore we were able to use these to bind the octavo. When discussing what needed to be done next on the book, I discovered that the book doesn't need a mull because of the cords connecting the textblock to the board. So all there is left to do is adding the leather to the case and gluing the end sheets.

We also took time to review the edits to the flow charts and make more detailed edits. I also got to help give another tour of the department to potential IMLS students. This is important because it sets the view of the department to the outside community.

Modern bookbinding is basically doing a double-fan adhesive mend on pages that have been cut to the same length. This method is used when replacing books with digital copies. When considering printing a digitized books, Sharlane checks the original item against the digital copy to see if the digital copy includes all of the blank pages. She also checks to see if it has a high enough resolution. Then she makes the pages to prove where the book originated for copyright purposes. For this book we are doing the same thing, but with empty pages instead of text block that already has information printed in it.
-Select paper and end sheets and cut the paper in half (the paper was 8 1/2 x 11, now it is 8 1/2 x 5 1/2).
-Then choose the end sheet and cut the end sheets, fold them, and double check the size against the text block.
-Next, choose the ribbon page marker and headbands and cut them to fit the book.
-Next use the same process of double fan adhesive with the addition of the end sheets (putting in a press, gluing, then weighting the item).
-Glue on the ribbon and headbands directly after the last step.
-Measure the boards for the cover using the text block, exactly the same as when making the quarto and octavo. When making this you need to leave 1/4-1/8 inch more than the text block, and check the direction of the board (it should be bendable horizontally).
-Measure the spine and cut the spine liner using normal end sheet paper, along with the spine strip at the same length as the boards out of bristle board.
-Select the fabric or paper for the cover and cut a piece large enough for your book.
-Create a right angle for the fabric/paper and put down one of the boards. Leave 3/4 inch of space around the board, marking and cutting the top edge.

-Draw a line 1/4 inch or less from the board and lay down the spine strip, making another line of equal width.
-Place down the second board and cut the fabric/paper 3/4 inch from the board.

-First glue down the spine piece and bone folder it down.
-Then quickly glue the boards, evening out the glue by swiping the brush over the board vertically. Any inconsistencies may lead to air pockets in the case.
-Place the boards in between the lines you have already drawn for them. Line them up with the top edge of the inner square. Rub the boards down from the center out with your hands.
-Put the case under plexi-glass and weight for a half hour.

Next you need to prepare the text block for the case.
-Cut a piece of mesh fabric for the mull. The fabric should extend 1-1 1/2 inches over the sides of the spine, while being about 3/4 inch from the top and bottom spine edges.
-Fold the mull fabric in half.
-Put the book in the upright brace and coat the spine with PVA glue.
-Place down the fold of the mull fabric in the center of the spine, then open up.
-Rub down the mesh until the glue goes through, you may need extra glue at this point.
-Pulling down the sides of the mull fabric to eliminate air.
-Coat the spine with PVA again, including the endbands.
-Coat the spine liner and place it ontop of the super.
-Let dry under wax paper and weights for 15-20 minutes (or until it is cold).

Take out the case and start the process of turning down the edges.
-The library corner is a process where you take the corner of the fabric and glue it down so it appears to have a 90 degree angle. Then you bone folder around the edge and bring up the sides to be glued down. This process leaves a small gap where you can see the overlapping materials.

-An easier way to approach (which is the approach we took), involves folding the case is by lightly folding the material over and pinching the corner loosely.
--Then cut the excess fabric off, but not completely to the board or you may end up with a gap.
--Thinly coat the the outer edge with glue (PVA) and fold it over using the bone folder to adhere the fabric to the book.
--Gently bone folder the side and the excess fabric around the top edge of the board. This secures the material so that it can be folded over with the top material. (Repeat the last two steps on opposite side.)
--Thinly coat the excess fabric running along the length of the boards and spine liner.

--Push the fabric to the edge of the board with the bone folder and fold over, starting from the outside.
--Push the fabric towards the center, then gently bone fold down the spine piece. (Repeat the last two steps on opposite side.)

-To attach the text block to the board line up the text block with the case.
-Put an old piece of wax between the end sheet and put the mull over on the end sheet.
-Lightly coat the two with glue. When you are done it should look pearly white.
-Line up the edges again and close the book cover over the end sheet and mull.
-Lift the edge of the cover and replace the wax paper with a new piece. You can check this by turning the book over and holding the wax paper out of the way. (Repeat on other side.)

-Gently bone folder the gutters of the book.
-Put the item in the press with the metal runners overnight. Be sure to line up the spine of the item.

Next we worked on the case for the traditional style book. I started to cut the material last time, so now I simply need to draw in lines.
-Make two lines 3/4 inch from the bottom and foredge.
-Place down the book and mark the top of the book, cutting the fabric 3/4 inch beyond.
-Loosely measure out the spine by rotating the book over to the opposite side and marking the fabric. Remember to leave a little extra space.
-Cut 3/4 inch beyond the board's edge.
-Put the book in the bracer/press with the pegs, line up the boards.
-Fold the fabric down the center and notch the fold so it is easier to find when stretching to the fabric.
-Get size 18 thread out and tie one end to the peg diagonally down from the the first cord.

-Apply glue to the center of the fabric. Use PVA for fabric, wheat paste for leather.
-Place the fabric on the back of the book and stretch the fabric to show the indents between the cords. Use a bone folder when necessary.
*At this point we learned that the fabric I chose will not stretch at all.
-Weave the string around the cords to make a more pronounced indent.
*We tried this for a few minutes, then decided that it was not going to work. We removed the fabric and cleaned off the center so it could be used for another item. Later on I will cut a new cover for this book as well as the octavo.

We moved on to learning how to repair VHS tapes. There are two repairs that can be done in house: wrinkled or ripped tape and broken cases. Four inches of tape is only a small blip of film that is virtually unnoticeable when viewing the film. The preservation department carries extra case pieces.
-The first thing you always do is check the outward condition of the VHS for any major problems.
-Then you open the case by removing the five screws on the back. You may have to cut through adhesive of labels or barcodes on the item.
-Flip the VHS case over while holding it closed and position it so the flap faces you.
-Push the buttons on the sides of the flap to open up the case.
-Between the film reels at the top there are flaps that you can push that will allow you to lift out the reel. This flap grips the teeth of the reel canister.
-To splice film take out both sides and locate the first available area of unwrinkled/unmarred tape available. (In the case of wrinkled tape you may have to go ahead and trim the pieces before the next step.
-Splicing the film works exactly the same as with microfilm, you line up the two sides of the film so that they overlap and cut the pieces together. The library uses a microfilm splicer to do this repair.
-Add a piece of VHS film tape to the item, doing it one side at a time like the microfilm splices.
-Place the canisters/reels back into the case by pushing the same release button down.
-Position tape so that it weaves between the metal/plastic runners.
-Wind the tape back up with your fingers, leaving the splice close to the top so that you can view the film to make sure the repair worked for the item.
-Close the item by hovering the case over the top with the flap open before setting it down on the bottom side.
-Hold the pieces together and flip the item over.
-Replace screws.
-Test the video by rewinding a little and watching for a minute or two for any inconsistencies in the film. *If you cannot find the clip from one image to the next and the VHS is still playing, you did the repair correctly.

At the end of the day I started to cut and measure the leather for the book, to replace the fabric piece. I ended up having to use a waterproof marker, because the pencil did not show up. I left a little more space on the edges of this in case the paring damaged the edges at all. I also started cutting the cover leather for the octavo. I left the library at 4:30pm.